Getting Started on '31 S/W body

Posted by Bob Carabbio on November 16, 1996 at 23:47:23

I'm looking for some input on proper order of operations from folks who might have gone through this process before. I've got a '31 S/W 3-window 4-door which is at this point totally disassembled, and original. The wood is all gone from the body (either missing or removed by yours truly) The tank is out, the doors are off and the body is sitting on a roll-around frame. The general condition of the body is good with only a few minor dents at the upper curve of the body above the rear window. there is minimal rust except for some re-construction needed at the extreme bottom of the fender wells toward the back. The sheet metal rear floor well is perforated, and the cowl is rusted at the lower belt line (as usual). Obviously the replacement of the rusted section is first, but I can also work on replacing the wood (since the condition of the upper body is excellent. I've purchased a wood kit which came without instructions of any sort, and am wondering the following:
When new wood is placed, is any special preparation of the metal structure needed besides painting-i.e. welting, or seating compounds like body putty. I noticed that the header was set in welt originally. What are your suggestions?
Is it recommended to install the wood as received, or is it good to coat it with either paint or water seal (or does that increase the likelyhood of squeaks?).
Is there a trick to re-welding the header cover into place without cooking the header (since the header outer cover had to be cut at the top corners of the windshield frame to get the header wood out/in)? Additionally, is it recommended to Lead in the header cover seams after welding, or will body filler suffice (i've noticed that most of the S/W cars in our area appear to show cracks in the finish in this area.
What is recommended for the rear floor pan? it's ribbed in the original, and the bottom of the ribs are getting pretty "lacey". Does anybody make a replacement pan? I haven't seen any in the catalogs.
Does anybody have details or sketches about the wood used in both the front seat pan to support thge seat back, and the wood structure used to support the seat back in the rear?
By the way my body originally had the Dome light at the rear above the rear window, but the wood kit has it mounted between two of the roof ribs instead. The car came with a solid seat back (with NO fold down center rest), and appears to have original cowl lamps. Where should the dome light be?
Finally, The gas tank that came with the car was hopelessly rusted from the inside. I was able to find one at the Pate swap meet this year, but it's also rusty albeit not breached anywhere that I can see. what's the best way to clean it out (it rattles pretty good)? is dipping for rust removal a good idea, or does that cause other problems? Do you expect problems with the solder joints like around the gas gage-etc?
Any info about the above will be appreciated.

Follow Ups:
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body Marith McCoul November 18, 1996 at 10:42:28(2)
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body Bob Carabbio November 19, 1996 at 23:54:57(1)
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body Marith McCoul November 22, 1996 at 10:53:17(0)
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body Bob Johnson November 18, 1996 at 09:49:09(1)
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body Bob Carabbio November 20, 1996 at 00:02:20(0)
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body steve November 17, 1996 at 20:39:41(2)
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body Bob Carabbio November 27, 1996 at 22:29:42(1)
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body steve November 29, 1996 at 23:59:52(0)

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