Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body

Posted by Bob Carabbio on November 27, 1996 at 22:29:42

In Reply to: Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body
posted by steve on November 17, 1996 at 20:39:41

Thanks for the help -
Since you're familiar with wood, a quick question- The top wood kit that I bought has the wrong curvature toward the back sides of the roof. This is the wood that runs from the header back to the rear of the roof opening. There are two pieces that run on both sides of a flange along the roof opening and bolt to the body structure with horizontal 1/4" carriage bolts. toward the rear of the body, the on the outside of the curve gaps about 1" over a 2' run toward the back corners.
The Slant-window 4-dr is al all-steel body where all the wood (top and otherwise) is not structural. The top wood only serving as a tacking strip for the top material. The sections are small - about 1" square - about the size of normal top ribs. It looks as though the only way to fit the rear curve would be to bend the wood to the proper curve. since this is hard wood, what's the best way to do it? would steaming be the best alternative or are there other chemicals/techniques?
The header in these cars is installed in such a way that the front metal face of header must be removed in order to get the wood out. It appears to have been a lap joint (possibly soldered) where the header cover slips down into the windshield posts and fastens there. the joint line is then leaded well enough to be invisible even with the paint removed. I've noticed though that most of the S/W cars in the local (Dallas) club have cracks in the paint at the location of the header/windshield post joint, whereas mine didn't. I've probably created a future problem by removing it, but didn't have much choice. I believe I will try to lead the joint whenever I get it back together.

Follow Ups:
Re: Getting Started on '31 S/W body steve November 29, 1996 at 23:59:52(0)

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