Be prepared...

Posted by Glen Weilbaker on May 22, 1998 at 08:13:13

In Reply to: Re:Removing hinge screws
posted by Jim on May 21, 1998 at 17:35:57

Jim,
I have delt with pins, clamps or presses had no effect, not even with heat or soaking, although I didn't get the hinges red hot because the inside hinge part looks like a forging, don't know for sure but on the safe side. Had to resort to filing the head and bottom end off with a pointy rotory file via a tiny die grinder, pull apart the hinge. The piece can be clamped to drill out the pin with a small bit working to larger to where almost hitting the hinge bore, then it can be pressed out. This is easier when the door is off and on a bench. Found freeing the screws easier to deal with, having the right size of screw driver of coarse.

All this is extreme but I live in the rust belt and certain body parts are hard to come by and I try to stay away from the repo stuff, besides the customers like it better to keep their cars with most of the original parts intact.

Also you said you were going to repair some rust at the bottom of you doors. DO NOT DIP THEM! Remove the paint with aircraft stripper (found at automotive paint supply) and in the nooks and crannies GENTLY blast. The doors have a bunch of cavities around the windows that hold the dippers stuff that eats away the metal and ruins paint when it isn't neutralized which hard to do because of the nooks and crannies. When you get your metal work done, seal the inside with POR-15, have had very good luck with this stuff plus it traps the grit from the blasting.

The patch panels are fair from all the common supplies, they need to be worked to fit right. Reinstall the door to align the bottom with the bead on the car then attach panel.

Hope this helps, most of the heart aches are from not knowing what lies ahead.
GW




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