Cadmium Plating (as it relates to light switches) and other minutia
Posted by Gordon Biggar on May 16, 1998 at 21:41:50
| The restoration continues... Cars would go back together much more quickly if one didn't get bogged down in details.Since cad plating seems to be done by the pound at most shops (with a minimum charge of $40, at least here in Houston), I've been scouring the Judging Standards to ensure that anything that even smells like cadmium will come off of my vehicle for plating. The light switch body (two pieces) may pose an interesting dilemma, about which I'm hoping the pros among you will have some thoughts.Once I started disassemblying same, I realized that the wiring to the tail lamps would have to be unattached.(Someone has told me that there was only one tail lamp [left rear] when the cars came off the assembly line.Is this true, or could a right rear lamp be ordered as a customer option?) I am told that cad plating is accomplished by first dipping the piece in question in an acid bath; then the plating is performed in a similar manner.Is this true?Since the base of the switch body contains a brass(?) contact plate, held in place by three rivets, will this first have to be removed before the plating is done?If so, can similar pop rivets (without the holes) be found to rivet the plate back into place?I'd prefer to approach the plating shop armed with info, instead of relying on a shop's flip(?) answers.I would think that portions of a metal piece (e.g., the stop pins on the Zenith carb - although removable) could be plated individually, although this technique may require "special handling" -- for an aditional charge, I'm sure! The wiring harness on my '30 Sport Coupe is frayed, appears "old" in appearance, but is in serviceable condition.The color coding of the wires appears correct.Is there a way to discern whether this is the original wiring, or something that might have been replaced 20-40 years ago?I'd like to "go with the old," unless it is not original.I understand that Bratton's has a very nice repro harness. Continuing right along: I polished up the bracket that holds the glass sediment bowl in place (i.e., the piece that attaches to the firewall).Now that I can see what it is -- pot metal -- can the finish be preserved by using a satin polyurethene coating -- or the like -- to prevent its tarnishing over time? Engine rebuilding was so much more fun... Thanks for any thoughts that might come my way. Regards, Lord George |
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