Posted by Mike Flanagan on April 02, 1998 at 21:29:39
In Reply to: Re: Early 28 steering repair
posted by Glen Weilbaker on April 02, 1998 at 13:00:40
I've never preheated in this situation. Generally speaking preheat is needed to control against laminar tear while cooling. By the time you have built up both sides of the ball the temp will be fairly uniform and the ball should be allowed to cool to ambient temp without quenching. doesn't take long. Try to keep the weldment from ever getting "red". If you detect the temp climbing towards a red color let 'er cool for a while before continuing buildup. I've never used mig in this application and the time spent slagging the weld, changing welding rods and generally screwing around is sufficient to control heat build up. As for the dims I'll have to do some measuring at the shop tomorrow. God Speed Under 50. The Model A Fool. : : As I've said before, many times, I'm a big fan of the way Henry did it originally. The radius rod ball can very easily be repaired (out of the car) by building up with weld and grinding off all of the build up that isn't round. I do this with a air die grinder with grinding stones that I purposely sacrifice a small amount of the stone to concave the grinding surface. Then I just go in circles checking with a "gauge" that I made to fit a "good" radius ball from another car. Takes about an hour to repair the ball including welding. If you have access to an AC welder (the litle red Lincoln "buzz box" works well) you can buy E 7018AC 3/32 dia and it will work nicely. Then replace whatever is necessary to bring the ball socket back to original and it's in there! : : God Speed Under 50. : : The Model A Fool. : : |