Posted by Mike Flanagan on March 29, 1998 at 08:51:14
In Reply to: Re: Engine stud boil over
posted by Joel Rapose on March 28, 1998 at 11:10:17
I always wrap the studs with teflon tape when inserting in the block. Then when I add the water I include 1/2 can KW Block sealer. There is a difference in sealers. Some are designed to stop leaks in radiators and cooling systems and usually state this in the name. Block sealer is generally intended to solve the problems you describe. Then I immediately start the engine and let it run for at least 1/2 hour with a temp gauge in the radiator neck and a thermostat in the outlet to a temp of 180. Then retorque and allow to cool and repeat the process. Once the block sealer goes in there you should start and cool twice to keep it from settling out of suspension. On older engines that develop problems I am a firm believer in solving the problem and leaving the sealer on the shelf... unless you have to get home of course. God Speed Under 50. The Model a Fool. : Here's my problem, thanks for your suggestions. : : I have mated a professionally rebuilt short block and machined head using copper/asbestos show gasket, glued down with the "purple stuff" (permatex sealant from Brattons).New studs used coated with anti-seize.All torqued through multiple hot/cold cycles to 55 (I've done it at least 10 times).When engine gets warmed up (motometer shows minimal if any red) I get head water draining up through studs # 3 & 6, and engine seems to run rougher. |