Re: Bob Johnson reply to woodgrain application

Posted by John Icenhower on March 16, 1998 at 23:06:13

In Reply to: Bob Johnson reply to woodgrain application
posted by Brian Sprayson on March 16, 1998 at 18:07:30

Hey guys,
Here is the steps we used at a Dallas MAFC workshop put on by member Lloyd Kerr (Mr. Bestbrake) in March of 1995.Everyone had an opportunity to try their hand at it and with a little practice you can get a very nice woodgrain and it will look very much like that in the Painting Guidelines.
Ref.: Bill Reeder article in The Restorer, May/June 1967
(If you can't get hold of a copy of this, let me know via e-mail.)
Also in Vol. 2 of "How to Restore Your Model A" page 107.
Mahogany base coat = Ditzler DDL 25054
Maroon Brown (1981 Mazda color)
Top Coat (grain or also known as "the mud") =
3 parts flat black enamel
3 parts dark brown gloss enamel
1 part linseed oil
(This makes plenty and can be shared because a little goes a long way.)
Enamel reducer will take the "top coat" off without harming the base coat.
If top coat (grain) is too light, you can darken up with more touch-up.
For grain, use cheap brush, 1" wide, cut off irregularly (not smooth & straight) and fairly short so that it is stiff, this gives you the "grain".
Summary of procedure steps:
1) Any repair that is needed.
2) Glass bead.
3) 100 grit sanding on soft wheel.
4) 1st heavy laquer primer.
5) 1st sanding 180 grit.
6) 2nd primer & fill with spot putty.
7) 2nd sand ing 180 grit.
8) 3rd primer.
9) 3rd sanding 320 grit.
10) 4th primer
11) 4th sanding 600 grit.
12) Mahogany base coat laquer.
13) Wood grain.Dry at least 24 hours.
14) Varnish.Good quality spar.Dry for a long time (2 or 3 days.)
15) Sand lightly with 600 grit to remove orange peel.
16) Buff with white compound.
17) Wax.

Follow Ups:
Be careful around screw holes Bob Johnson March 18, 1998 at 10:13:57(1)
Re: Be careful around screw holes John Icenhower March 19, 1998 at 00:58:40(0)

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