It sounds like the spacing of inner wheelbearing and spindle. If spacing is not correct brake drum will cause shimmy.

Posted by Bob O on December 03, 1997 at 11:36:53

In Reply to: Re: 1928 Briggs - Shimmy
posted by Marco Tahtaras on December 02, 1997 at 23:32:08

: Assuming all else is tight, remaining possible contributors are
: Loose wheel bearings
: Loose ball-cup assembly at the rear of the front radius rod (wishbone)
: loose tie rod & drag link ends or weak springs
: Excessively worn steering sector shaft bushings
: As far as the toe-in, most people don't know the correct measuring points. The toe-in is measured between the fattest point of the sidewalls, 6 inches above the ground, fore and aft of the axel, and should be checked only after driving the car forward. The measurement was changed in late 1928 from 3/16" to 1/16" (+/-1/32") to reduce tire wear. A toe-in above 1/16" will slightly increase stability but will increase tire wear.
: The 1928 Leather back (60-A) is a nice car and definately less common than tudors & coupes. How early is it?
:
: : Trying to find information on my car. I'm told it is a rather
: : rare body style. Can anybody verify this? The car is in great
: : shape but I have a shimmy problem around 20mph. When car was
: : purchased, it had not been driven for 10 yrs. Problem started
: : as a high speed (30-40mph) shimmy. Rebuilt kingpins and checked tow in. Problem went away briefly. Checked steering
: : box and it needed tightened. Corrected problem again but only
: : briefly. Changed wheels due to left front rim bent. Thought
: : that that would solve it, but again only briefly. Rechecked
: : tow in with someone more knowledgeable. Adjustments made and this corrected it again but now shimmy at low speeds. If you
: : speed up past 20mph shimmy will quit and run just fine. HELP!!

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