Re: Replacing Wood

Posted by Marco on Oct. 16, 1998 at 11:41:28

In Reply to: Replacing Wood
posted by joe Grobleski on Oct. 15, 1998 at 15:22:38


Joe,

This is an excerpt from an answer to a similar question

I went through it for a friend 10-12 years ago. We were concerned that removing the skin would do to much damage to the skin and jamb to be content with the finished product. The only problem after removing upper door cap was a small strip of wood that fills the raised step in the door jamb. It is held to the main frame with small nails or brads, and must be broken free when prying out the frame assembly. That strip must then be omitted on the new frame.

It's very difficult for me to deviate from the way things were originally done, but still think it was the best approach. Another thing to be aware of, it appears the outer parimeter of the frame was cut last. This allows the position of the window opening and thickness of the posts to vary from door to door. You will likely find considerable difference between right and left sides.

On the rear doors I made the posts, upper, and mid cross braces first. With the body bolted down and shimmed for proper door fit, I hung the door in position and pulled the bottom of the door in tight against the pillars. I then made and fitted the curved piece to where it helped pull or hold the bottom in. The last was fitting the bottom wood plate. This piece controls the twist of the door assembly.

The bottom plate will allow you to twist the door to fit the body perfectly, however twisting the door more than a few degrees from it's original position will cause the window to bind in the channel.


In addition, as David has emphasized in the past, the door hinge pillar and latch pillar must be on the same plane. The upper part of the door (above the belt line) should require no twist to fit the door opening. ANY twist will put a bind on the window and it will not roll up and down properly.

Hope this helps,

Marco


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