Re: Sparton Horn Restoration -- Here We Go Again- and again

Posted by carla on July 19, 1998 at 15:16:14

In Reply to: Re: Sparton Horn Restoration -- Here We Go Again....
posted by Gordon Biggar on July 19, 1998 at 11:38:48

: : hello again, gordon,
: : hmmmm----somewhat differing opinions, but everybody's correct---different workers will prefer slightly different technique, but do equally good work. i don't know whether i can sort out some of the minutae, but i'll try--------
d. j. is quite right in saying that bead-blasting small parts is a good method, but, remember that he has developed a high level of skill over many years experience.
my own feeling is that glass-blasting creates an excellent painting surface, but the operator must be very careful with thin steel---it's too easy to warp or distort a thin part. or
embrittle the metal, causing cracks if one uses a little bit too much pressure, or keeps the media stream on the part a little too long---fine media will do a much better finish than
coarse, but, of course, takes longer to remove rust.
myself, i wouldn't try any blast-cleaning on fine screen mesh cos the mesh would most likely disintegrate.
applying a paint-remover to the work first greatly reduces blasting time.
using a phosphate surface-treatment (metal-prep) after sanding or blasting helps with paint adhesion.
d. j. makes another good point about painting technique--but i would differ about one detail---unless you already have a very high skill level, a cheap paint gun would just lead to frustration.
if you would choose to invest in a "binks" or "de-vilbiss" detail gun, with its "air transformer", a combination regulator and water trap, and to spend the time needed to learn the fine points of painters' technique, then you would be able to do the very best of finishes. there's nothing difficult to learn, just takes a little time.
caveat: some firms are selling "chinese copies" of high quality tools----aside from my opinion of "communism" and
"slave labour", their tools are simply "no good", for any use more complex than that of a claw-hammer. the real equipment is not cheap, but--"you get what you pay for".
using best quality enamel, or, better, one of the two-part catalysed paints, you could, with a bit of practise, do a far nicer finish than anything that ever done at the ford works.
is that worthwhile--or is it "overkill"?--only you can decide.
"colour sanding" is the traditional painters' technique for creating a smooth surface in the paint---any book on automotive paint work will explain that far better than could be done here--400 and 600 grit abrasive paper are usual, but paint suppliers offer 1200 and finer also---there are some fancy finish techniques that i think "overkill", but some people prefer, using "clear-coats", etc.
all the best
carla

:
: ______
: Carla --
: After reading your comments, I really feel like a piker.After spending untold hours in the mechanical restoration of my buggy, it would be a shame to have parts look like they were painted by a beginner, using inferior materials, to boot.
: I presume that a fine-gritted sandpaper (like 300) might do the trick.I will be so bold as to ask: what is "colour sanding?"No humility here...
: Thanks for you help, as always!
: Gordon
: (The Great Unwashed...at least when it comes to painting)

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