: After....I am aware that the specs call for a variation of no greater than .006" when aligning the flywheel housing....
......: Is any one of the readings below "acceptable?"
: In the numbers below, I am looking at the housing from the rear.The "L" and "R" refer to the left and right, respectively, bolt holes to the block for the accelerator linkage.The "9/3" refers to the two housing-to-block attaching bolts (of the four) at 9pm and 3 pm.Obviously, the measurements refer to the total shim thicknesses used during any set of measurements.The "12" through "3" refer to the measurements taken at 12 o'clock, six o'clock, etc., given the shims in place at L,R and 3/9.Comprenez-vous?As you can tell, the dial indicator was zeroed at 12 o'clock.:L R 9/312 9 6 3 : .020.0300/0 0 +.001 +.002 -.014 : .020.0300/.0050 +.0025+.0045-.012 : .010.0300/.0100 -.002 +.014 0 : .015.0350/.0100 -.013 +.005 0
: Regards to all, and thanks for your past help.
: Gordon Biggar Hi Gordon:You should be commended on the outstanding organization of your readings in such an excellent format!Youare almost there and I feel confident that you can adjust these shims and successfully complete this project!If you further label your readings as lines A. thru D., from top line to bottom, only one (1) of your readings is more than 6 thousandths off per line.For example line A. is only off -14 thousandths at the 3 o'clock reading; Line B. is only off -12 thousandths at 3; Line C. is only off +14 thousandths at 6, and Line D. is only off -13 thousandths at 9.
To try to see what's happening here, try drawing 4 separate, simple circle diagrams, labeled A. - D.Plot the "L & R" bolts and the "9/3" bolts, and label your shim thicknesses adjacent to each bolt w/regular lead pencil as "20", "30" thousandths etc.Next label your dial readings in "red" pencil as "0" thousandths at 12 o'clock, "+4-1/2" thousandths, etc., at 12, 9, 6, & 3 o'clock.Now you can begin to see how your adding and subtracting of shims are twisting the housing, raising and lowering, and are definitely "working" for you.Maybe try to picture this engine pointing downwards, flywheel up, and the housing is like a small building resting on piers arranged like the bolt layout.As you remove shims on one corner, the opposite corner lifts upwards. As you add shims on one corner, the two (2) adjacent corners try to lift also, and the opposite side trys to go downward;however, at the 6 o'clock reading, this area is like a cantilevered sun deck with no pier support directly below because of no bolt here.Your L & R shims are most sensitive because they are farther from the center, are twisting the housing, and are raising and lowering dial readings at the 6 o'clock area like a see-saw on your 9/3 axis.Altering shim thickness at your L & R shims may also re-set your "0" point at 12 o'clock.
Diagram B. dial readings change from diagram A. by only adding 5 thousandths shim at bolt 3, e.g., only raised 3 o'clock reading 2 thousandths, raised 6 o'clock reading only 2-1/2 thousandths, and raised 9 o'clock reading only 1-1/2 thousandths; however, changing shims at bolts L & R significantly changes readings aproximately 10 thousandths in diagram C & D.
Diagram D. dial readings change from diagram C. readings by altering and see-sawing dial readings at 6 & 9 o'clock by approximately 10 thousandths.
Greater differences in thickness in shims under bolts can begin to distort the housing. Having shims under all bolts makes adjusting easier.
Maybe try a new diagram E. with following shim thicknesses:
E.L = .030, R = .030, 9/3 = .10/.020, or;
F.L = .030, R = .040, 9/3 = .10/.020. Best wishes, Henry
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