Re: EARLY 28 STEERING REPAIR

Posted by Mike Flanagan on March 25, 1998 at 00:44:32

In Reply to: EARLY 28 STEERING REPAIR
posted by FRANZ LYNCH on March 23, 1998 at 21:58:11

There are two reasons to milk a cow, one is to get milk the other is to make your fingers strong. Adding the stabilizer is much like the latter. An exercise. It will mask the condition that causes the shimmy but will neither make it completely go away or cure it.

The problem may well be in the radius ball. Also in the spring perch nuts. These must be tight like heck! Pull the cotter pin and tighten to the next castle, if you can then they were to loose.

The steering wheel is really not that difficult to remove. Just find a thick nut (hardware stores carry coupling nuts that are dandy for this purpose) with the same threads as the steering shaft. Soak the shaft/wheel connection with panther pith over nite and then screw the nut over the threads leaving about .060" gap between the nut and the wheel. Now lay the steering column on a table and steady it with one hand and, with a dead blow hammer, knock the chit out of the nut. One smack should be enough to close the gap. Unscrew a little and hit 'er again. It's offa there!.

God Speed Under 50.

The Model A Fool.

: I have an AR pickup that has a problem with going into a bad
: shimmy at slow speeds.So far I have installed new king pins
: and bushings, rebuilt the tie rod and drag link ends, cleaned
: and repacked the wheel bearings.The next area to be given
: attention to is the steering sector.I have the new parts to
: rebuild it but before I start I would like to know what is the
: best way to remove the steering wheel and shaft.Since the
: tires are new the sector seems to be the last place to find
: the problem.Would the addition of a steering stabiliser help?


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