Former owner syndrome -

Posted by BOb Carabbio on February 24, 1998 at 19:49:44

In Reply to: Valve Job
posted by Paul Reasenberg on February 23, 1998 at 18:11:00

Wow - that's a new one!

I wouldn't have thought that the gear drive for the oil pump / distributer would survive under those circumstances.the missing sleeve is the bearing for the driven gear, and it is held in place by a fairly heavy spring (about 30# force).

I'd suggest a thorough inspection of the driven gear since it can't have been running very true without bearing support.The driven gear has a tang that fits down into the pump, but I can't imagine the thing even staying in mesh with the bearing sleeve gone, unless there's been a sleeve added at the pump joint to hold the shafts in alignment.I also fear for the camshaft teeth, and the top bearing in the oil pump if it's been running long that way.Like I said earlier, opening up one of these is like turning over a rock. You never know what'll crawl out.

I've got a bearing serviceable sleeve if you need it but the extra driven gears I have are pretty far gone.

For reliability's sake, I'd suggest removing the front cover, pan, and the radiator, and pulling the camshaft to see what's happened to its pump drive gear.You can hold the tappets up when the valves are removed with small hose clamps to allow the cam to come out.It's a good chance to check the spring plunger in the front cover also - I'll give you odds it's stuck in.

With the pan off, you can pull the pump and look for damage at it's top bushing.

It's also an opportunity to check the rods and mains for clearance (and for being in right) believe it or not three of the rods in my engine were installed backwards with the dipper facing the wrong way - wouldn't have run long that way!.

Valve grinding compound is available at any good auto parts store by "Clover" it's available in a double can with "Coarse" and "Fine" grades together. If the seats are rough, it saves a lot of work if you run a 45 degree valve seat reamer on all the seats before grinding.I've seen inexpensive ones that use sandpaper and they work fine.I've done valve jobs with the old "Suction cup on a stick" and with the crank drive valve oscillators.I think the crank drive unit is worth the expenditure if you don't have one.

Get your head surfaced and magnafluxed for cracks particularly around the distributer area inside.pay real close attention to the block also in the valve areas.

The tappets may be self-locking, Or they may have jam nuts, only inspection will tell for sure.

I'm a believer in oil filters, but not the style you describe.Mine is set up to take oil out of the gage plug hole (Which has been increased to 1/4 NPT). then out to the filter on a Fram adapter, then back to a new 1/4" NPT tapped hole about 1.5" above the gage port.The oil pump has been modified by brazing closed the oil slots in the top of the pump and cutting an "O" ring groove for a seal.That way ALL the oil has to exit the gage port, and go to the filter.Since it comes back in right at the distributer drive gears, the normal oil flow of the engine is unaltered.

Bob Carabbio




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