Re: Primer solutions

Posted by Ken Wiewiora on Sep. 23, 1998 at 12:13:07

In Reply to: Primer
posted by Dale Beckman on Sep. 23, 1998 at 11:22:34

: I'm restoring a 30 Coupe Dlx, and can not find any one to do the body or paint work so I am going to do it my self.
: I have been told that the primers in use nowdays must be painted within one weeks or you have to sand and reprime. I want a paint job that is tough, but not enamel.
: My problem is this , after I work an area (sand pound and putty if required) "How do I prime the area that I've just worked so that I can paint it 3 months from now??
: Can you Help me out here????

In two words -- You Can't
I am in the process of doing the same and after allot of research i found this procedure to get the best show finish you can
1)have the entire vecheicle media blasted(plastic media)
media blasting will leave a 400 grit finish on the metal
2)throughly clean the sheet metal with laquer thinner.
3)Prime all of the sheet metel inside and out with PPG self etching primer -- You will need 1 gallon of primer and 1 gallon of catalist--
mix 1:to:1 ratio..and a must ----wear a good respreator mask-----
This primer will bond to the metel to give one hell - of a start base.
Which is also a metal sealer and rust preventer.
4)Do any nessery body filling work, patch work. at this time..
5)After you are happy with all of the major body work and after you have spent thoes many hours block sanding.. now it is time to apply another type of primer -- use PPG two part epoxy primer this primer when applied will expand and get into every "nook any crany" it can expand up to 1/32" .. this primer also is a great bonding surface for the top final color coat...
6)Now it is time again to get out that old pice of wood and block sand and block sand and block sand and when you think you are done and have a smoth fiinish -- block sand some more....!!!!!
7)A little tip after you apply the epoxy primer-- if the primer is black then get a can of white spary paint primer and make the car look like it was vandalized -- ziz gag allover it left and right - up and down - play tick tack toe-- what ever.. what this will do is the spray paint will stay in the low spots when you are block sanding and that color diffrence will let you know that you need to block sand some more..
8)A major note of importance -- Pick your final color and the manufacture of that paint before you start anything.. not all top coats are compatable with all primers.....So if you are going to use PPG for the self etching primer and PPG for the two Part epoxy -- then you beter use PPG for the final color coats..
And one more note to that not all products are compatable even form the same manufacture.. So ask the sales man at the paint store to give you the exact products that are compatable.
9) O - YA did i mention block sanding -- the single most important part of a smoth non wavey finish. Block sand - Block sand - Block sand till your hand falls off then use the other hand untill that one also falls off. -- And if you can get a couple of friends over - feed them Bear and let them block sand till their hands also fall off..!!!!
If you do all of this at a cost of around $400 in supplies (depending on color) You will have a finish worth $5000.00
Good Luck andif you have any questions e-mail me and i will see if i can help some more..
Also if you want the product part numbers for PPG that i used e-mail me and i will dig them up...
Good Luck And Happy BLOCK SANDING

Follow Ups:
Re: Primer solutions doug handran Sep. 23, 1998 at 23:05:42(0)

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