Re: Bodywork-I'de like advice

Posted by Glen Weilbaker on February 16, 1998 at 09:41:59

In Reply to: Bodywork-I'de like advice
posted by steveg on February 13, 1998 at 23:33:23

Steve,
You can read all the books, be told how to but the best way to learn is to jump in do for yourself. It doesn't have to be big, try working on the worst part that you think you're going to replace anyway, maybe a rear fender.
First is to clean the part of paint and see what is actually there, can be blasted but used care cause it can distort the piece. Rust has to be removed, Rips welded, patch panel holes. Basically have to make the piece structurely sound. Bring the part as close as possible back to shape by metal bumping, this takes practice.
The next step can go a couple of directions, prime the piece with etching primer and fill over the primer which is becoming very popular because the primer seals the metal from humidity.
Or fill then prime with a high fill primer but the primer is porous to humidity. In both the metal has to cleaned first, with "metal etch", this cuts the surface and gives the metal a tooth for the paints. The fill is a glass resin epoxy commonly called Bondo. There is a varity of these, the better coming from auto color suppliers, stay away from the department store stuff. Now comes shaping, filing and sanding the piece to that factory shape. Try to keep the filler build thin as possible if it looks like it getting thicker than a 1/4 inch, bump the metal up. An aid to help you shape is to fill primer the work and block sand to see how the work is going.
When you're confident about the shape, prime then seal. A sealer minumizes solvent swell of the bondo and primer you work so hard to shape. Here's why to keep the fill thin, the thicker,the more the swell.

Now it's time to paint color. There is a LARGE variety of paints availble, enamel, two part enamals, laquer etc, etc, etc, The main thing is to stick to a "system". I like to use Dupont stuff, Centari acrylic enamals and base, clear coat, but this my preferance cause the supply house is close. Ask the supplier questions, they know thier stuff.
A tip for enamel is to spray a tack coat, a thin mist of paint, let it get tacky then procede with painting. Enamal runs easily, tack coat gives a grab to minimize running.
Another tip is to do all the color at once otherwise you'll have shades.
After the paint is dry it is time to wet sand and bring the suface up for buffing. Wet sanding smoothes the surface of the dumpling cause from spraying. As the term applies wet sanding is done with water proof paper and water. The water flushes away the grit and removed material. Sanding is done with finer and finer grits till you use something like 1200 or 1500 then it's time to buff.
Buffing has its systems too, the auto color supplies has the answers for what is best.
This is basically the steps I use, but the most important thing I can say is use masks and respirators!!!! The dust and chemicals hard on the body.
Hope this helps answer some of your questions,
GW
: I'm only a couple of years away from the body work on my project.. I need to take a very good body to bare metal,, then what do I do.. I'de like steps/ procedures w/ brand names on the products used..I've heard "metal prep"but what is it? who makes it? What do they call it?I've read/ got a bunch of books but I'm looking for "instructions for dummies"
: I'de appreciate E from someone who can lay it out A1, A2, B1, B2 etc.... I'm a fairly proficient woodworker/finisher but I don't know the materials used here.. I can make it shine after we get the "sub" layers on...

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