rear end parts

Posted by Bob Carabbio on December 27, 1997 at 14:16:26

In Reply to: Drivetrain Woes/Parts Needed
posted by Keith on December 26, 1997 at 22:57:44

In the process of re-building my rear end (for my '31 S/W in kit form)I found that my pinion was quite good, but the ring gear had rusted beyond use.A Year and a half later I hadn't found a ring/pinion set, so I bought a ring in good shape (for $20 up in Saline MI), and assembled the rear end, finding that in order to achieve good gear mating (using machinists blue to check tooth contact)I had to diverge pretty far from the "Normal" specs for adjustment.since the car isn't road worthy yet, I still don't know whether the gear set will be quiet or not.

Moral of the story - a new gear set probably is a good idea since matching used sets aren't too plentiful, unless you're like me and have more time than cash.On the other hand a used "as is" rear end assembly shouldn't sell to high - maybe less than $100 - I've seen complete units for $50.This would get you back up in a hurry even if it wasn't perfect.That would give you time to do a class-A job on your old one.

Also check

The bearing inner race seat area on the Ring gear side of the differential cage - they tend to wear badly and lose the press-fit.

The rear wheel bearing inner races on the ends of the axle housings.They get flat on the bottom - 0.005 is the service limit, and the axle housing will have to be stripped in order to machine and press on new races.The main problem with egg-shaped inner races is that they prevent the rear brakes from adjusting properly.Mine were 0.025 out.

The condition of the taper, and key slot on the axle ends, also the seal contact area for corrosion or excessive undercutting.

Replacing the bearings, races and seals is an absolute must since they're cheap compared to the amount of work you have to do to get to them.

I do most of my parts business with either Bratton's or Mac's.

Bob Carabbio


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