Re: 1928 Briggs body leatherback Fordor Sedan

Posted by Glen Weilbaker on December 07, 1997 at 15:43:15

In Reply to: Re: 1928 Briggs body leatherback Fordor Sedan
posted by Mike Flanagan on December 05, 1997 at 07:53:36

Mike,
No pithed toastes here! You make a very good point that wasn't obvious, in fact I had to replace my preches and I took it for granted that they should fit, now you gave me something to check out will the chassis is apart.
Glen
: Glen, with all due respect I emphatically disagree with using any form of lubricant when installing the spring perchs in the front axle. The configuration of the connection between the perch bolt and the nut, ie; the cone shapes, are designed to eliminate movement. When I install or re-install a spring perch in a front axle I use prussian (sp?) blue on both friction surfaces, tighten and then remove to check for improper fit. High spots can be taken down by various means. This insures total contact in the socket and once tight emiminates movement. Lubricant on the cones will promote movement and in the event dirt works it's way in will rapidly promote wear. Dirt and grease are a wonderful abrasive. Lub on the threads of the nut is a good idea.

: A similar situation is the pins that connect the boom sections on a lattice boom crane. The quickest way to get chewed on by an operator is to put some oil or grease on his boom pins. You ain't heard the likes of the profanity to which this can illicit. The sockets on the boom and the pins themselves are all machine fit with a slight chamfer on the end of the pin to aid in alignment. If oil is introduced it attracts dirt like bears to honey and pretty soon the pins are worn. Big expense to repair.

: Hope I haven't pithed in your Post Toasties but thought I should bring this up for consideration. And what the heck, a little disagreement is what makes life interesting. I love a good natured argument... I'll argue with anyone about anything anytime and take either side....

: God Speed Under 50.

: The Model A Fool.

: : : To add to Mike's comment, use some kind of lub on the threads and friction surfaces. GW

: : Andy, Tighten the nuts under the spring perchs. If you can see any rust... sorry had to go into the shop and look at the axle I'm working on... either around the vicinity of the collar that rests on top of the axle which is part of the yoke on the end of the radius rod or the nut below. ANY rust present is a sign of movement/loosness. Remove the cotter key and back off of the nut enough to be sure the nut is the correct one (tapered cone shape up) I just disassembled a front end that had one nut of the wrong persuasion. Upper side was as flat as my brain wave. No bueno! Now get a break over bar and a cheater pipe and tighten the chit out of both of these nuts.When you are pulling on the wrench pretend you have your ex-wife by the throat (if you don't have an ex-wife I'll gladly lend you mine). Go to the next castle after you think it's tight enough and you should be just about right.

: : : If that don't work tighten up the tie rod ends and make sure there is no slack in the connection between the pitman arm and the output shaft on the steering gear box. Sounds dumb but check for equal tire pressure in both front tires. If one is <> than the other this can set up a shimmy in the best of front ends. Toe in is critical, I like a 1/16 on each side for a total of 1/8.

: : : And the front wheel bearings....

: : : A word to the wise, perform one repair at a time. If you do all the above in one fell swoop then go for a drive and all is well what fixed it? Damfino.

: : : God Speed Under 50.

: : : The Model A Fool.
: : : : Trying to find information on my car. I'm told it is a rather
: : : : rare body style. Can anybody verify this? The car is in great
: : : : shape but I have a shimmy problem around 20mph. When car was
: : : : purchased, it had not been driven for 10 yrs. Problem started
: : : : as a high speed (30-40mph) shimmy. Rebuilt kingpins and checked tow in. Problem went away briefly. Checked steering
: : : : box and it needed tightened. Corrected problem again but only
: : : : briefly. Changed wheels due to left front rim bent. Thought
: : : : that that would solve it, but again only briefly. Rechecked
: : : : tow in with someone more knowledgeable. Adjustments made and this corrected it again but now shimmy at low speeds. If you
: : : : speed up past 20mph shimmy will quit and run just fine. HELP!!




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