| : : : : Hello, : : : : I'm installing rear sub rails and inner fender panels on my 30 coupe. In a dry run I noticed that the inner fender panels do not fit plum (level) top to bottom. They pitch out at the bottom were they attach at the subrail. Is this correct? Don't have an example to compare. : : : : Much thanks : : : : Dean Travis
: : : Dean,
: : : I checked a 30 Coupe and 30 Roadster using a torpedo level.They both checked the same and were about 1/2 bubble slanted to the outside.The coupe has had the subrails replace.The Roadster has original rails.Hope this helps.
: : : Have fun!
: : : Paul
: :
: : Dean,
: :One thing to look out for when doing your inner panels is that the repo parts tend to interfer with the shocks. I have seen this on numerous cars where they had to dent the area to make room. I too, do not have a good car to compare, so question for the experts. Does the body go over the top of the shock with sort of straight edge or is it notched or c'ed? To me the dented approach doesn't look right.
: :By the way, my car is a late '31 deluxe coupe which should be the same as a '30 with respect to the question, I would think.
: : GW
: I am interested in restoring my coup.It has been in the family for 50 years and has been used as a working car and not a show car.it is titled as a 31 but the engine block number is july 1930. how do I know a which it is and if it is a standard or what.Is there a body number on it. It is a Briggs body but I don't understand the body number.
Neal,
As far as I could figure out there isn't any numbers that distingish a model. The "A" will clue you in on what it is by what is on the car and comparing it with the judging standards, provided it hasn't been monkeyed with.
Mine was easy, it has an indented fire wall--late '31.
It has a higher seat back, cowl lights, dome light, pin stripped gas tank around the instruments, factory roll down rear window, etc.--deluxe features.
Also some things on the frame that show up on '32 models which put towards the end of production, it has the engine numbers stamped on the rear cross member and on the passenger frame between the service and emergency brake shafts, threaded dust covers on the front wheel hubs, the list continues. With all that I only Know roughly of when it was made. You mention you have numbers, are they the ones on the engine or are on the body somewhere?
Maybe the fellas can give you more insight. Personally, I have fun tinkering. I'm restoring mine as show driver, correct as possible and go driving.
Tinker on,
GW
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