Re: Help! Update on Leaking Rear Main

Posted by Jim Angus on August 30, 1997 at 12:49:09

In Reply to: Re: Help! Update on Leaking Rear Main
posted by DJ.Voyce on August 30, 1997 at 02:53:22

: : I would once again like to impose upon the Model A fraternity for additional information on my leaking rear main on my 28 tudor.I have dropped the pan and am looking for the return tube that some of your suggested I shorten to reduce the amount of oil exiting through the rear of the engine.It doesn't seem to be there!Where exactly is it located; how big is it (diameter) and how long is it??I have one of the aluminum rear seal blocks on hand.Can it be replaced with just the pan dropped?It looks to me that if the clutch housing cover plate is removed, it should be accessable?While I have the pan off, is there any other maintenance that I should perform; re-torquing, etc.?
: :Your continued help is certainly appreciated.
: : Jim Angus; Harris, Sask. Canada
: G'Day Jim,
:The pipe you're looking for fits into the rear main bearing cap just forward of the oil pan gasket groove & should be 5/16" dia. for a '28 engine. This pipe is approximately 4" long & has a bend of about 30 degrees +/- 3/4" from the lower end to clear the curve of the oil pan. If it's missing it'll definately be a big contributing factor to your leak. My advice is if there aren't any strange noises eminating from the lower end of your engine, just fit a new pipe which is available from most of the Model A spares guys like Snyders or Mike's, etc. & spot weld it to stop it unscrewing itself then re-fit the oil pan & see if your problem's solved. If you're hell bent on changing the aluminium insert whilst the pan's off, it'll entail removing the dust cover & rear main bearing cap & then working the insert around the crank & out, but be prepared for a fiddle of a job. Personally I'd rather do this job with the engine out & flywheel off so that a bit of gasket sealer could be smeared on the insert & all the main bearing clearances checked. If you have to drop the main bearing cap to repair the return pipe threads or have the welding done,you might as well check the bearing clearance (plastigage is the easiest way) as too much will allows oil to leak past the journal. Ensure when replacing the cap that the shims (if any) are pushed against the crank journal to prevent any oil escaping between the gap that would be left between the cap & block face if they move away. A very thin smear of gasket sealer/silicone sealer on the shims also helps to stop oil by-pass. Hope this helps.
: Good luck & mind those oil drops in your eye.
: Regardz
: DJ.

DJ + Others who responded:
Voila!!NO OIL TUBE!I guess the reason I couldn't find the tube is because there isn't one.I can see now where it fits in the rear main cap, but it isn't present and isn't in the bottom of the pan.From the information I have received to date, I believe that this must have been the reason for my bad oil leak.
I have ordered the parts and will let you know how I make out.
Jim Angus




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