| : I need some expert help.I've recently traded for a beautifull 1928 (early) Model A--can't get it to fire--Have replaced: coil, plugs, points and condenser, distributer, rotor, plug wires, and battery and checked the switch--still no fire---Ideas??????? Harry,
I'll give it a try.Would be nice to know if voltage is present on primary side of the coil.If not there, there will be no spark.If you have a voltmeter,put one probe(-) on one of the coil primary terminals, (doesn't matter which).Put the other probe (+) on ground ie, cylinder head.Does the meter indicate presence of about 6 volts? If you have no voltmeter, how about one of the test lights?The kind with a alligator clip on the end of a short wire leading from a device which looks like an icepick and has a bulb in it.Connect the alligator clip to ground and touch the pick to a primary terminal on the coil.No voltage or no light?Stop looking at the ignition system and check the wiring from battery source.Yes, has voltage or light? With distributor top and body removed turn engine until the points are open.Turn Ign. Switch on. With the voltmeter or test light put the (-) probe on the movable point.The (+) probe on ground.Is voltage present or light on?No? The problem is between the coil wiring through the ignition switch and down to the dist. Yes, Have voltage or light.With the secondary wire removed from the distributor top and placed about 1/4 inch away from cylinder head (ground), momentarily short between the open points.A spark should occur at the points and a blue (angry) spark should occur from the secondary coil wire. If the sparks occur, the ignition system is providing spark.This eliminates a lot of components that could cause the problem.However, this does not prove that the spark is getting to the plugs and that is about all remaining that could be the source of trouble.To prove this by static testing is a little difficult and it is easier to substitute a rotor and distributor body which make up the distribution system.If all these tests prove OK, make sure the points close when the high point of the cam moves away from the rubbing block.This can be tested by putting the (-) probe on the moveable point and the (+) probe on ground.If the light is on or voltage is present the points are not closing.Find out why.If you are using the new style points, check carefully, some of the plates do not position the points properly and cause failures such as this.These proceedures should locate or get you very near the problem.Good luck!
Have fun!
Paul
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