Re: hydraulic brake conversion
Posted by Dave Colliau on March 29, 1997 at 18:46:00
In Reply to: Re: hydraulic brake conversion
posted by Bob Carabbio on February 27, 1997 at 00:04:32
| : I'm Building a '31 Type 160-A Fordor and will be installing Hydraulics from a '39-41 Ford.I intend to use the car on a daily basis, and remembering back in '59 when a '31 Tudor was my daily driver, I got into hot water a couple of times (almost rear-ended a school bus once) because I had skipped the WEEKLY brake adjustment. : The problem is that with the mechanical brakes, as the shoes (or other things wear) the pedal drops slowly, and suddenly when you REALLY have to stop quickly, the pedal hits the floor and you're not slowing fast enough.Of course if you're only going to use the car once a month, maybe this isn't a problem. : Properly adjusted "A" brakes are just as good as any - Cast Iron drums (at $100 each) are definitly a good idea. : Cling's Aftermarket Products : Specializes in NO Chassis Modification Hydraulic installations, and has complete kits available except for drums.He's got a Master cylinder setup that mounts between the battery and the tranny and doesn't require any holes to be drilled.So much for the "ruining the value" issue.He's got a publication for $5 that details the modification and mounting of the '39-'48 parts that's well worth the money.His other stuff isn't cheap but would be the easiest way to make the conversion. : I Bought a VERY good set of '39 front drums and backing plates at the Pate swap meet in Fort Worth last year for $50.I've seen (but not bought yet) Indifferent Rears in the $75 range. Rears have proven harder to find so far. The '39-'41 drums are nicer looking than the later ones I think so I'm trying to Get a full set of early ones. : If you are looking for drums at a swap meet, take a rod or stick with you that's exactly 12" long to check the drums. Make sure they're 12" inside (service limit is 12.060")and not turned drastically oversize. |
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